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Gold Audemars Piguet Watches

Audemars Piguet has been making gold watches in a variety of shapes and sizes for well over a century.

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Although the stainless steel Royal Oak is what elevated Audemars Piguet’s public stature, gold is historically their go-to material.

Gold AP Case Codes

  • BA = Yellow Gold
  • BC = White Gold
  • CN = White Gold with Ceramic Bezel
  • BB = White Gold with Yellow Gold Bezel
  • OR = Rose Gold
  • CR = Rose Gold with White Gold Bezel
  • OI = Rose Gold with Titanium Bezel
  • RO = Rose Gold with Ceramic Bezel
  • OK = Rose Gold with Rubber Bezel
  • SG = Sand Gold

As you can see, AP seems to get most creative with its usage of interesting materials when it comes to rose gold cases. Yellow gold cases never get anything other than a yellow gold (sometimes gem-set) bezel.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Openworked models are extremely hot right now, and the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked 50th Anniversary in Rose Gold might be the most popular of all. On the sportier side, limited-edition rose gold Royal Oak Offshore models like the Lebron James AP and the Japan Edition Diver both have titanium bezels and look great.

50th Anniversary Royal Oak Jumbo Extra Thin Openworked
50th Anniversary Royal Oak Jumbo Extra Thin Openworked
Lebron James AP watch, ref. 26210OI (Rose gold ROO with titanium bezel)
Lebron James AP watch, ref. 26210OI (Rose gold ROO with titanium bezel)
AP Diver Japan Edition watch (rose gold with titanium bezel)
AP Diver Japan Edition watch (rose gold with titanium bezel) ref. 15711IO

The first yellow gold 39mm Royal Oak debuted in 1977, five years after the steel original. Ref. 5402BA is a grail for many vintage AP fans.

The OG gold Royal Oak, ref. 5402BA

“The Brick,” meanwhile, is the yellow gold equivalent of the original steel “Beast” Royal Oak Offshore model. Also known as “The Pounder” because it weighs almost a pound, The Brick is beloved among AP geeks.

A "beast" of a gold Audemars Piguet watch: ref. 25721BA
“The Beast,” ref. 25721BA

The hottest white gold Audemars Piguet watch on the market today is probably the John Mayer Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar. The “Crystal Sky” dial is definitely special. Although its retail price is $180,700, this 2024 collab trades secondhand for closer to $400,000.

The John Mayer AP

Ref. 16202BC, a white gold version of the classic Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin, was released in 2023 with a unique “grainy blue” dial. Some collectors call it a Tuscan dial. No matter the name, you’ll have to pay well over its $80,700 list price to find one online.

Hot white gold Audemars Piguet watch: 16202BC with "Tuscan dial."
16202BC with “Tuscan dial.” Image: Audemars Piguet

What is Sand Gold?

Sand gold is a proprietary reddish-white gold alloy released in 2024.

Sand gold Audemars Piguet watch ref. 26735SG.OO.1320SG.01
The first sand gold AP watch, ref. 26735SG.OO.1320SG.01. Image: Audemars Piguet

What is Frosted Gold?

Frosted Gold AP watches have been hammered with a special diamond-tipped tool to create a special shimmery look. AP collaborated with Carolina Bucci in 2016 to develop the technique.

Frosted Gold AP Royal Oak Concept ref. 26630BC
Frosted Gold AP Royal Oak Concept ref. 26630BC